Chuji

At Chuji, an izakaya in Aoto, Katsushika-ku, the aroma of warm broth rises from a pot of dobin mushi. The pot is generously filled, so there is plenty to savour beyond the clear, flavourful broth poured into the small cup: take your time over the ingredients themselves as you enjoy a drink. Pair it with sashimi that shows a clear regard for the fish. The slices are substantial, with a straightforward sweetness that makes for a satisfying start to the meal.

Sizzling flavours and thoughtful small plates to pair with a drink

Alongside the fish dishes, the garlic-scented liver stir-fry has earned a following for its appetising aroma. It sounds well suited to a draft beer or chūhai. The choices invite an easy bit of improvisation: pair vinegar-cured mamakari with sake, or break up the meal with small plates such as shirako ponzu, whale bacon and fish namerō.

A relaxed setting for an early-evening drink

The cosy interior fills up at around 10 people, with a gentle atmosphere created by the owner and landlady. It feels equally comfortable for a quiet solo drink or an evening shoulder to shoulder with someone close. The restaurant opens from 17:00 to 23:30 on every day except Wednesday. With limited seating, booking ahead is a sensible precaution. Payment is cash only, so remember to bring some.